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MAKE THE BOUNTY LAST
JERSEY ROYAL POTATOES
BY XANTHE CLAY
New potatoes are one of the first joys of spring, sometimes overlooked in favour of their more pushy fellow spring vegetable, asparagus. A freshly dug new potato has a fine flavour that’s worth preserving
FREEZE New potatoes don’t freeze brilliantly, as they can go watery or mealy. Really small, waxy specimens fare best as they have a lower water content. Cut them into olive-size chunks and boil for five minutes in salted water until just tender, then toss in butter and freeze in bags for up to 3 months.
PRESERVE There are wonderful Indian potato pickles, such as aloo achaar, but none that lasts more than a few days in the fridge. For longer-term storage, try drying them instead. Slice small waxy new potatoes 1-2mm thick (a mandoline will help here). Boil in salted water for 3 minutes or until barely tender. Drain well, then spread out on oven trays lined with non-stick baking paper. Dry at 60°C (or in a warming drawer) for 5-10 hours until the slices are crisp but not coloured. Pack into bags or jars and store somewhere cool and dry for up to 2 months. Eat as they are, fry in oil for extra-crisp crisps or soak in water overnight and use in soups, stews gratins and Spanishstyle tortillas.
BUTCHER’S CU TS
BARNSLEY CHOP A double-sided loin chop on the bone. Shaped like a droopy moustache, each side of the chop contains some under-fillet as well as loin.
How to cook it Best griddled, grilled or pan-fried.
NECK FILLET A long, thin, boneless cut from the eye of meat that runs through the neck. It has a bit of fat, so lends itself well to braising but it can also be cut into cubes for kebabs or butterflied lengthways for a lamb steak.
How to cook it If trimmed and from a young animal, you can roast it: sear it first, then give it 10 minutes at 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Rest before slicing.
SCRAG END Inexpensive neck cut with lots of bone and connective tissue.
How to cook it It can be braised whole with veg, herbs and wine, or cut into chops for hotpots. Not the prettiest of cuts but lots of flavour.
BREAST A fatty cut (it’s like pork belly), breast is often boned, stuffed with a breadcrumb filling and rolled before slow roasting. It also makes good broth and can be cut into ribs that turn crisp when fiercely roasted.