skills.
Anna Higham’s pissaladière scrolls
Technical bake.
Buttery brioche is a wonderful thing and we’re used to seeing it as sweet buns, babas and other enriched breads. But Anna likes to put her own spin on things and has used her innovative brioche dough for these amazing savoury scrolls, filled with all the flavour of the Med
FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
“Making brioche is easier than you think – you just have to be patient. Making sure the dough is well mixed and developed, then adding the butter methodically are key to success. It comes together into the most beautiful glossy dough. I’ve added plenty of wholemeal flour in the form of a tangzhong – a method borrowed from Chinese and Japanese baking where you pre-cook a portion of the flour in water and milk. It yields the fluffiest, softest bread and works well with the wholemeal flour, as it fully hydrates and softens the bran, making it much easier to incorporate. It’s less sticky than regular brioche and stays fresh for longer.
This recipe will yield double what you need for scrolls, but there’s a reason for that – it will mix much better as a slightly larger dough, and the joy is it freezes brilliantly, so you have a portion ready to defrost and make more scrolls (or something else) with on another day.”