
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK
Not so long ago, being vegan marked you out as a food extremist: a skinny hippy who was a headache to cook for and who probably knitted their own yogurt. How things have changed.
Riding the crest of the wellness movement wave and a renewed interest in healthy eating, veganism is sweeping up more of the British population than ever before. Research by the Vegan Society shows there are now 542,000 vegans in Britain, up 360 per cent since 2006. And as the numbers have surged, the face of veganism has changed too. The stereotypical skinny hippy has made way for buff athletes, glamorous celebs and foodies who want their meals to be delicious as well as ethically sound and nutritious. It might not be there yet, but veganism is heading mainstream.
Scan the ever-expanding vegan cookbook section in your local bookshop and it’s clear that interest in plant-based food is flourishing. There are recipes for elaborate cakes made without eggs or dairy, meatless burgers and flesh-free barbecue food. The modern take on plant-based nosh no longer means culinary compromise. Anyone who still needs convincing should search Instagram, where more than 24 million drool-worthy images appear with the hashtag #veganfood – and there’s barely a plate of pallid tofu in sight.
These days, being vegan is relatively easy. Supermarkets carry own-brand vegan products and a growing range of dairy-free ‘mylks’ and faux meats. On the high street, more cafés and restaurants are offering flavourful vegan options – the popular sandwich chain Pret A Manger is even considering opening meat-free branches after trialling a Veggie Pret outlet in Soho, London – the place was packed out and the top eight bestselling items were all vegan. Plant-based food festivals are popping up faster than you can say cashew cream, too. More than 60 events will take place in the UK this year, including a vegan summer camp for teens and plant-based Christmas food fairs.
“People now associate veganism with health, fitness and wellbeing”