New potato salad with bacon and gribichestyle dressing
FOOD WRITER AND POTATO SALAD ENTHUSIAST DEBORA ROBERTSON SALUTES AN UNSUNG HERO OF SUMMER
I am tired and I am hot and it’s been one hell of a year. Pass the potatoes and pass the mayonnaise…
Put out the bunting, fill the paddling pool, it’s that time of year again: potato salad time. In the past decade or so, salads have pulled focus. No longer a bit on the side, now they are exuberant concoctions of leaves, microleaves, juicy citrus, roasted vegetables, toasted nuts and seeds, shaved, dolloped and grated cheeses, torn herbs, extra-virgin, single-estate oils, special vinegars, the fermented, the pickled and the cured. Thank you dear Yotam Ottolenghi and all your foot soldiers in the recent salad wars for saving us from our half-acucumber- and-an-unripe-tomato selves. We salute you. But just for a moment, you can stand down.