Stilton is as much a part of Christmas as turkey and sprouts – and rightly so. The creamy-crumbly blue is at its best in December, when cheeses made with rich end-ofsummer milk reach their full maturity. As the renaissance in British cheesemaking has gathered strength, there’s an explosion of exciting alternatives for the festive cheeseboard.
The first rule of doing things differently is that there are no rules. Yes, the basic principle of mixing colours, shapes, tastes and textures still holds true – and a variety of milk types helps vary the flavours – but if you want to serve a huge hunk of wensleydale as a mighty centrepiece or serve four blues made with cow’s milk to show off their differences, that’s absolutely fine too.
A couple of pointers: big wedges are better than skinny slices because they don’t dry out (and everyone gets a taste). And think beyond the usual chutney, crackers and port – fruitcake, honey and beer can also be great accompaniments.