Cured trout.
Lemon-cured trout terrine with pink peppercorns and elderflowerpickled cucumber
FEATURE, RECIPES, FOOD STYLING AND BACKGROUNDS POLLYANNA COUPLAND PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
I’m a big fan of curing fish at home. It’s incredibly easy (basically it’s a case of covering fresh fish with flavoured salt, waiting a bit, then washing it off); all you need is time. Everyone tends to reach for smoked salmon in the shops, but cured trout is better for the planet and offers all the same richness with – in my opinion – an even better flavour.
WHY CURE?
It might have started out as a way to preserve fresh ingredients, but the fact that curing has stuck around after the invention of refrigeration shows it has benefits beyond mere preservation.
It changes the texture
As the salty cure surrounding the fish draws out moisture, it firms up the flesh. The length of curing will dictate the final texture: a long cure of a few days will leave you with an almost translucent, gelatinous texture (similar to smoked salmon) but even a short 20-minute cure works wonders for any fish destined for the frying pan. Try sprinkling coarse salt over a cod fillet, leaving it for 20 minutes, then rinsing before cooking – it will hold its shape better.
It seasons throughout
We use a pinch of salt to season dishes, but curing seasons in a better way. Because it draws out liquid from the fish, it concentrates the flavour and allows the salt to penetrate beyond the surface. You wash off the excess salt before eating the fish, so it’s never overseasoned. Sugar is used in curing for the same reasons – it draws out moisture and balances flavours.
Different sugars add different flavours – muscovado adds rich caramel tones, while caster sugar is neutral.
It enhances flavour
The beauty of curing fish at home is that you can experiment with flavour combinations. Again, the longer the curing time, the stronger the final flavour. Traditional Scandinavian flavours such as caraway, dill and juniper are the most popular for good reason, but you can play with any herbs and spices you like. Citrus zest is another brilliant ingredient, adding freshness to the cure, while nori seaweed brings an extra umami hit. Get creative!
HOW TO CURE FISH
The process of curing is simple and safe, as long as you follow these seven simple rules…
1 As you’re not cooking the fish, it’s important to get the freshest fish you can. It also needs to have been frozen. This sounds like an oxymoron but most of the freshest fish is frozen at sea before reaching the fish counter. Any fishmonger will be able to steer you in the right direction – or you can order fantastic frozen fish online, ready to defrost at home.
2 For an even flavour (and even saltiness), ensure the piece of fish you’re curing is the same thickness throughout. For trout, select a centre-cut piece. If you’re curing a whole side, the thinner tail end will cure more quickly, meaning it will have a slightly different texture and flavour. Trim off the thin belly piece and very tail end as these will end up too salty to eat.
3 Use salt flakes or rock salt and ensure it doesn’t contain an anti-caking agent, as that could hinder the curing process. Don’t use fine salt – it will result in your fish being too salty. (Because the combined grains have a greater surface area, fine salt seasons more strongly than the coarser stuff.)
4I use 10g salt flakes for every 100g fish I want to cure, plus half that amount (5g) of sugar, finishing with any flavourings. This should give you enough cure to completely cover the fish without having lots left over.
5 Cure fresh ingredients in something non-reactive: a plastic container or an enamel, ceramic or Pyrex dish is ideal. Metal can react with the salt and interfere with the curing process, giving a nasty metallic taste. And use a dish with high sides rather than a plate, as the fish will release quite a bit of liquid.
6 Once the curing time is up, wash off the cure under a cold running tap. Pat the fish dry using kitchen paper, then store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4-5 days or until you’re ready to use.
7 Use pieces of skin-on fish where possible; the skin acts as a barrier between the cure and the fish, meaning you’ll need to trim away less fish before serving. Remove the skin after curing, though, as it doesn’t have the best texture.
HOW TO CURE FISH
The process of curing is simple and safe, as long as you follow these seven simple rules…
1 As you’re not cooking the fish, it’s important to get the freshest fish you can. It also needs to have been frozen. This sounds like an oxymoron but most of the freshest fish is frozen at sea before reaching the fish counter. Any fishmonger will be able to steer you in the right direction – or you can order fantastic frozen fish online, ready to defrost at home.
2 For an even flavour (and even saltiness), ensure the piece of fish you’re curing is the same thickness throughout. For trout, select a centre-cut piece. If you’re curing a whole side, the thinner tail end will cure more quickly, meaning it will have a slightly different texture and flavour. Trim off the thin belly piece and very tail end as these will end up too salty to eat.
3 Use salt flakes or rock salt and ensure it doesn’t contain an anti-caking agent, as that could hinder the curing process. Don’t use fine salt – it will result in your fish being too salty. (Because the combined grains have a greater surface area, fine salt seasons more strongly than the coarser stuff.)
4I use 10g salt flakes for every 100g fish I want to cure, plus half that amount (5g) of sugar, finishing with any flavourings. This should give you enough cure to completely cover the fish without having lots left over.
5 Cure fresh ingredients in something non-reactive: a plastic container or an enamel, ceramic or Pyrex dish is ideal. Metal can react with the salt and interfere with the curing process, giving a nasty metallic taste. And use a dish with high sides rather than a plate, as the fish will release quite a bit of liquid.
6 Once the curing time is up, wash off the cure under a cold running tap. Pat the fish dry using kitchen paper, then store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4-5 days or until you’re ready to use.