THE COOKBOOK
Clodagh’s Suppers by Clodagh McKenna (Kyle Books £20) TESTED BY Susan Low
The introduction gave me a serious inferiority complex. I thought that inviting a few friends round to share my cramped kitchen table, lighting a candle or two and serving lots of good food and potable booze was the height of hospitality. I’ve even been known to provide paper napkins (on request). It seems I’ve overlooked polishing my candlesticks, putting a scented candle in the bathroom, filling the place with seasonal flowers and providing warming pashminas when dining outdoors.
Of course, aspiration and escapism are important tools in cookery publishing and, facetiousness aside, the new book from the Irish chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, telly presenter and YouTuber has both in abundance. Fortunately, it also has plenty of ideas and recipes for hearty, honest food. I soon shed my sense of failure and headed for the kitchen.
HOW GOOD ARE THE RECIPES? Very. The book is divided by season, with three-course menus designed to make the most of what’s best when, balancing flavours and ingredients and making the host’s life as easy as possible. I tried out two classic recipes with Irish twists.
Roast butternut squash with cashel blue cheese and saffron pappardelle required just seven ingredients, was simple to make and its bright, saffron-yellow colour cheered up the winter table. Full marks.