Before becoming a chef, Stephen Harris was a financier – but before that he was in a punk band (The Ignerents). The proprietor of The Sportsman in W hitstable, Kent, he often compares creating new dishes with recording and playing in a band. “I’m obsessed with perfect pitch,” he says – and for a second, I’m not sure if he’s referencing his food or his music. As it happens, he’s talking about both – because, for Harris, both are a question of harmony.