PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, OLIVER HOLMS
The restaurant critic, journalist and author on his inherited love of stout, fond memories of teenage skating and a soft spot for a famously rude restaurant
I’m a lapsed skateboarder. Apart from it being a fun and occasionally dangerous experience, skating was important to me as a teenager because it was a gateway to music, art, fashion, films and bands – all these subcultures I didn’t know about in my suburban British-Nigerian life.
Restaurants are stories in themselves. I love that special moment of discovery when I’ve had a fantastic meal, experienced something I’d never seen before, am inspired by something completely unfamiliar. Food disarms people in a lovely way.