voices in food.
Sue Quinn writes to Florence White
Letter to my food hero.
The chance purchase of a second-hand book led food writer Sue Quinn to discover the remarkable and as yet untold story of Florence White (1863-1940). Sue salutes a lady who strived to save traditional English recipes from oblivion while forging a path for future female food writers to follow
FOOD STYLING EMILY GUSSIN
FLORENCE WHITE PHOTOGRAPH: HAMPSHIRE ARCHIVES (@HANTSARCHIVES)
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
Dear Florence
I discovered your treasure of a book, Good Things In England, in a second-hand shop more than a decade ago, and immediately you swept me away. The recipes you collected – 853 in all, dating from the 14th century to 1932 – took me on an incredible journey. You sourced them from cottages and sculleries as well as castles and royal kitchens the length and breadth of England. You didn’t just compile a set of cooking instructions – your book is a vibrant social history.
I’ve spent countless hours trying to find out more about you. What fired your passion for English cookery? Reading your books, tracing your life, sifting through archives of all your articles, I’m awestruck – honestly – by how prolific you were. How did you manage the recipe testing, writing and travelling, and still find time to establish the English Folk Cookery Association in 1928 to fly our culinary flag?