Tuna tartare with avocado, soy and ginger
PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON
While many of us wouldn’t think twice about ordering a sea bass ceviche or salmon tartare in a restaurant, we tend to be a bit more hesitant about preparing raw fish at home. I want to change that! The preparation for raw fish dishes tends to be incredibly simple (because, of course, it requires no cooking) and the flavours are always bright and refreshing. The most important part of the process is sourcing your fish.
Raw fish dishes are meant to be simple, allowing the fresh fish to shine through. Because of this simplicity, however, everything matters: the quality of the fish, the way it’s cut, the perfect balance of the dressing, and something to give the dish contrasting texture. While there’s no one correct way to do things, the following ideas and guidelines should ensure success.
BUYING THE RIGHT FISH
As with any fish, look out for bright clear eyes, red gills (not brown) and a smell of the ocean (rather than a ‘fishy’ smell). For raw fish dishes you need to go to a trusted fishmonger or decent online supplier rather than the supermarket, as quality and freshness make such a difference to the final flavour and texture. This doesn’t mean you need to hang around the fishing port to grab fish fresh off the boat – fish destined to be eaten raw should have been frozen at -20°C or lower for at least 24 hours to kill off potential nasties.
Even the finest, most expensive sushi and sashimi have to be legally frozen first in the UK and many other countries, and a lot of top quality fish is frozen at sea as soon as it’s caught to preserve freshness. There are some great online suppliers that deliver this fish in its still-frozen state, and good fishmongers will be able to tell you what’s been frozen in advance and is therefore safe to eat raw.
CUTTING IT DOWN TO SIZE Slice it!
Thin slices of raw fish tend to melt on the tongue and avoid the ‘fleshy’ texture that larger pieces of raw fish can have. They also provide you with more surface area to coat the fish in your chosen dressing. Thin slices are well suited to white fish with a delicate flavour, and lightly cured fish in particular. Expert tip: Pop your fish in the freezer for 90 minutes before slicing – this firms it up without freezing it solid, making it easier to get thinner, more even slices.
Cube it!
In a ceviche or tartare the fish will often be diced into little cubes or chopped into tiny chunks, again helping to create a larger surface area and providing a slightly firmer texture – perfect for fish that breaks apart when sliced. You tend to find this method used for tuna and other meatier, oilier fish.
DRESSING TO IMPRESS
While you don’t want to overpower the fish’s natural flavour, the all-important dressing will make it sing. As with cooked fish dishes, salt and acidity are the two key elements to drawing out flavour.
Salt
This will of course season the fish, enhancing its natural flavour and, if you want it to, lightly cure the flesh, giving it a firmer texture. Using good quality sea salt flakes is best for adding pure neutral saltiness, but have a play with salty ingredients such as soy sauce or even crunchy samphire spears.
Acid
Lemon and fish are a classic duo we all know and love, but don’t forget about other citrus fruit such as lime, orange and grapefruit. Beyond citrus, lots of other fruit can deliver the same sour punch; get creative with a sharp green apple, a spoonful of passion fruit seeds or whizzed up raspberries.