PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL
I want to talk about a trio of sidelined foods: the mussel, the gooseberry – and burnt stuff. First of all, it’s June, which means the gooseberry is shimmying into the sunlight. So often dismissed as too tart to be palatable, this glorious fruit needs only the right recipes, savoury and sweet, to put it on a culinary pedestal. And yes, you can find those recipes on p24.