Simple Sunday lunch.
In all cultures, sitting down to feast on a whole roast chicken, stuffed or otherwise, brings about feelings of comfort and abundance. Until not so long ago, it was a luxury few could afford, and for festive occasions alone. While nowadays a roast chicken has become an easy casual dinner– something you’d happily eat with your hands, then lick those juices off your fingers and lips – aproperly stuffed saffron roast chicken on an Iranian table still holds prestige and elegance, albeit with the same joyful finger licking.
In Iran, the chicken would be the golden centrepiece of a lavish spread for a gathering, next to trays of rice – two kinds: one simple, perhaps another with broad beans and dill – and possibly lamb stew with courgette or aubergine.
I am fond of this filling for roast chicken, not only because of the richness of sweet and sour flavours from the dried fruit, but also because it reminds me of the mehmooni (family gatherings) of my aunt, who’s been living in Germany with her family for about 20 years now.
The recipe is inspired by Turkic Azeri cooking, from the people of northwest Iran. My aunt snatched it from my grandmother and, being more daring than my mum in all matters in life, ended up being the only sister who could pull off two stuffed roast chickens to serve to her guests. My mum stuck to her failsafe khoresh – stews – which still gained her the reputation of an excellent cook among family and friends.
SAGHAR SETAREH