PHOTOGRAPHS INDIA WHILEY-MORTON BACKGROUNDS POLLYANNA COUPLAND
DID YOU KNOW...? Gooseberries have been cultivated in Britain since the 15 thcentury. The first soft fruit of summer, they could grow all over the UK, even as far north as the Orkney Islands. They were so popular in the 19 thcentury, in fact, that ‘gooseberry clubs’ were formed across the country, all competing to grow the heaviest berries (current record: 64.5g). In the 20 thcentur, the arrival of a gooseberry fungus from the US caused a sharp decline in the fruit and curtailed most commercial interest.
The berries can be green, red or white and sweeten if left on the bush – but most are picked underripe, when they’re still mouthpuckeringly sour. This sourness is probably why they lose out to summer fruit such as strawberries, blueberries and raspberries – but it does make them good to cook with.
Gooseberry and elderflower cobbler
Paneer skewers with gooseberry raita
The warming hug of ground ginger goes hand in hand with gooseberry tang in this wonderfully simple cake, enriched with ground almonds and yogurt
Gooseberry, ginger and almond loaf cake
A frangipane tart is a great medium for fruity flavours – especially when the fruit are plump, honey-glazed gooseberries. Chunks of white chocolate add a final note of sweetness
Gooseberry and white chocolate frangipane tart
Serves 6-8
Hands-on
time 30 min, plus 1½ hours resting
Oven
time 1 hour
Specialist
kit 23cm fluted tart tin with a removeable base