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30 MIN READ TIME

DID WE REALLY EAT THAT?

ALL IN GOOD TASTE? Influential TV chefs Marguerite Patten (below) and Fanny Cradock (far right) led the way in helping home cooks keep up with the culinary trends, questionable though they may sometimes have been

The contemporary food scene isn’t immune to culinary bad taste (you can add chai lattes and cronuts to the list opposite) but a quick flick through my old recipe cards or back issues of magazines reveals decades of much more embarrassing ingredient combinations, lurid food colourings, florid garnishes and other fashion disasters we lived through.

I mean, did we really eat that? My grandmother’s favourite treat for me was Spam fritters served with instant mashed potato, fresh from a packet. We were country folk, so real produce from the farms next door was just too mundane. Boil-inthe- bag rice with sultana-rich curry was a schoolday treat. Imagine my surprise when, as an adult, I lived in India yet didn’t encounter a sultana once. Yet the dodgy convenience food of the 1970s was considered modern and worldly at the time. Every decade had its trends that are now faux pas, and they’re not just confined to flares or shoulder pads.

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About delicious. Magazine

Treat yourself to the March issue of delicious. and get baking with warming crumbles, Richard Bertinet’s award-winning sourdough and the ultimate custard doughnuts and brownies. Or treat family and friends with happy-making recipes from Thomasina Miers, Rachel Allen and Tom Kerridge. Embark on a new food adventure with DIY ricotta, throw a vegetarian dinner party or learn how to make proper coq au vin. delicious. magazine is the best way to improve your cooking.

Other Articles in this Issue


Delicious UK
It’s the in-between month – a few spring flowers poking their blooms bravely through the soil, but no fresh home-grown veg or fruit to get eager about, apart from glorious pink forced rhubarb. It’s time to enjoy the last of the frost-nipped root veg, autumn-stored apples and pears. Cling on to ray-of-sunshine citrus and rev up the anticipation for those green shoots of spring. They’re on their way!
Weekend away March brings the first day of spring,
READ ALL ABOUT IT
I read your recommendation for The Case Against Sugar
NEWS, NIBBLES OF KNOWLEDGE AND GOOD THINGS TO DO RIGHT NOW
The celebrated Chinese cookery writer talks growing up in the kitchen and eating his way across the globe
These pages are about us doing the hard work so you
THE COOKERY SCHOOL
In the first of a new series, philosopher and food lover Julian Baggini casts fresh light on the emotions, sensations and motivations surrounding food and the way we eat. This month, he ponders the problems of plenty
Phoebe Stone meets the artisan behind Bath’s Bertinet Bakery, whose signature sourdough is taking on the supermarkets
New wave vodkas, plus drinks editor Susy AtkinsÕ best buys this month
Spam fritters, piped mashed potato, boil-in-the-bag curry… The culinary past is littered with best-forgotten dishes. In a flashback that’s more brain-freeze than madeleine moment, food writer Guy Dimond recalls some of the most ill-judged – and asks which modern trend we’re most likely to regret in decades to come
Hurry! Offer ends 31 March 2017
A magic bullet for weight loss… Now wouldn’t that be a great thing? But can any single food help our body burn calories more quickly, or is the notion just a gimmick? Sue Quinn investigates
There are international superchefs galore in the food-obsessed city-state, but the street food, which has been awarded Michelin stars, is some of the best in the world – even if it’s not actually on the street… Jenny Linford trawls the shopping centres to track down the hottest Singaporean dishes in town
WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: PAUL MASSEY AND KAREN
Instead of insisting that we hand-craft all our own meals at the kitchen table, Anthony Warner says we should take a fresh look at the food that freed us from drudgery to lead more fulfilling lives
OTHER GOOD THINGS
Cook the cover this month and you could win this set
This is a rare opportunity, something not to missÉ Join delicious. for an exclusive evening at Michelin-starred Le Gavroche
Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen – make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
• Make-ahead Easter lunch, family quiz, best Easter
YOUR RECIPE INSPIRATION
It’s one of life’s simple pleasures: a sweet, saucy fruit filling under a blanket of crumblycrisp topping. These recipes won’t disappoint, and we’ve even included a savoury meaty version to expand your crumble horizons
This is the ultimate roast for a bunch of hungry carnivores.
These dishes will satisfy (and maybe impress) the people
They’ve seen us through winter but it’s not quite time
Leeks conjure up memories of my dad hoiking them out
Making cheese at home might seem like taking things too far, but the method is so simple and your efforts will be rewarded with something that tastes miles better than the stuff you buy from the supermarket
Some edible things are so wondrously indulgent that, if they were to disappear, the food world would be bereft. In a new series, we get to the heart of what makes these dishes crave-worthy, and pin down how to achieve texture-flavour perfection. First up is a sweet treat loved by everybody
Rachel Allen is a master at creating dishes with easy crowd appeal. To mark Mothering Sunday on 26 March, this collection from her latest book includes recipes of the most tempting kind, many of which are old favourites, handed down to her from her mum
Chefs, food writers and the delicious. team remember their mum’s best advice from growing up
If you want to convince people you really know your stuff in the kitchen, a well judged dip, accompaniment or garnish is the answer. These quick fixes take minutes to make and will transform even the simplest plate of food into something memorable
For novelist Jane Sanderson, the aroma of her Grandma’s thrifty, no-nonsense hash as it bubbles on the hob transports her to the kitchen of a little terraced house, long ago
These versatile grains are part of British history. Comforting, filling and familiar, they’re a storecupboard staple with great cooking potential. They form the basis of a chewy flapjack, they give texture to cakes and make a crunchy protective coating when frying. If you think oats are just for breakfast, it’s time to think again
Homegrown
We all know that if you want the freshest, most flavoursome
If you’ve never tried growing your own, now’s the time to start – and here’s why
You don’t need a large garden to start growing your own – a windowsill, patio pot or hanging basket will do the job perfectly… So get sowing!
If there’s one summer crop that every cook should try growing it’s tomatoes – as anyone who’s eaten them sun-warmed, straight from the plant, will agree
The key to getting the most out of growing your own food is to plant things you like to eat. Here we feature four easy-to-grow vegetables and use them in recipes everyone will love
One of the pleasures of growing salad leaves and soft herbs is that they pop up again and again as if by magic… Toss them into summer dishes for unbeatable flavor
Sun-loving veg, such as aubergines, courgettes and peppers, taste glorious in these summery recipes. Grow them yourself in pots on your patio for a Mediterranean vibe
If you’ve never grown your own produce from seed before, the process can seem a little confusing. When do I sow? When do I harvest? What do I do in between? The good news is there’s no mystery – here’s how to sow so you’re guaranteed a good yield
Here’s a round-up of products and ideas to help you on your journey of sowing, harvesting and enjoying your own fruit, veg and herbs. Armed with this little lot, you’re good to grow
EAT WELL FOR LIFE
By adding a few clever twists and easy flavour flourishes, we’ve given family weeknight faves a new lease of life
Easy to prepare, packed with taste and the perfect foil for strong flavours, this good-value ingredient has culinary versatility in spades
Tom Kerridge lost 11 stone in a bid to turn his life around. These recipes from his latest book are a snapshot of how he achieved his remarkable goal. The secret? A focus on gutsy, generous satisfaction, not deprivation
Our take on the 1970s supper is made with lean steak and a lighter, yet satisfyingly creamy sauce
A warming soup, a comforting cheesy tart and a pleasing pud – this meat-free menu has ‘dive right in’ written all over it. It’s simple to prepare too, especially if you make a dish or two ahead
BE A BET TER COOK
While the delicious. food team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answer everybody else’s cookery questions, such as (this month) “What are all the different oats for?” and “Isn’t it easier just to let the person eating the food add the salt?” Here they’ve collected the best know-how together – with a helping hand from a friendly specialist or two. It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else and it will take your cooking to the next level.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LUCK. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN.