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73 MIN READ TIME

THE RIVER COTTAGE EFFECT Meet 3 trailblazers

NAOMI DEVLIN

This is a place for team players – not for people who want to be a shining light on their own

NAOMI IS A NUTRITIONIST AND AUTHOR OF ‘RIVER COTTAGE GLUTEN FREE’ AND ‘FOOD FOR A HAPPY GUT’. SHE TEACHES AT RIVER COTTAGE

“The rusticity of this place charms people. The experience of driving over the hills and arriving in that secluded spot feels a bit magical.

I started teaching here eight years ago. After I was diagnosed with coeliac disease, I started a gluten-free blog. I live nearby, so I asked them if they’d like me to run a gluten-free class. They thought it was probably too niche but gave it a go, and the classes have been bestsellers ever since. People aren’t just interested in ‘free-from’, but also in our sustainable message behind it.

We use wholegrains and cook from scratch with seasonal ingredients. I focus on things grown in the UK, such as linseed, yellow-pea flour and buckwheat. That philosophy fits perfectly with River Cottage. I think that’s why it’s been a long and happy relationship.

My first meeting with Hugh wasn’t particularly promising. I was in the kitchen prepping. He was whizzing through. I ran up and said, ‘Hi I’m Naomi!’ He just looked confused. Since then we’ve become friends. He’s always ploughed his own furrow, which I love.

Hugh and River Cottage have been so supportive of my career. If you want to do well here, you really can – if you’re a team player. I don’t think it’s for people who want to be a shining light on their own. They were great when I wrote the River Cottage Gluten Free book: they just let me get on with it. It’s sold well around the world, and that enabled me to write the second book. I’m on my third now. I wouldn’t have had those opportunities without River Cottage.”

CLASS OF HER OWN Nutritionist Naomi Devlin
flourished at the River Cottage Cookery School

Memorable TV moments

Mr F-W has a way of making us look at food differently…

SQUIRREL STEW Hugh earned his nickname ‘Fearlessly-Eats It All’ when he dished up squirrel and veg casserole on River Cottage Autumn.

WHAT’S IN THIS SAUCE? He hit on a novel way to deal with slugs that were eating his cabbages: de-slime in hot water and vinegar, simmer in stock, then serve in a tomato sauce.

THE 10-BIRD ROAST Not content with a Christmas turkey, or even a ‘turducken’, Hugh prepared a medieval-style 10-bird roast including pheasant, woodcock, pigeon, duck and goose.

ON THE VEG He surprised everyone when he went meat-free for River Cottage Veg in 2011. These days he still eats meat, fish and dairy, but in moderation.

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Local boy James Whetlor was a chef at River Cottage before turning goat farmer

JAMES WHETLOR

Hugh taught me to make noise to raise awareness – then offer a solution

JAMES IS FOUNDER OF CABRITO, THE ETHICAL KID-GOAT MEAT COMPANY. HE WORKED AS A CHEF AT RIVER COTTAGE FROM 2010-12

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delicious. Magazine
March 2019
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