A SLICE OF MY LIFE
BACK TO BASICS Simon’s love of good food started with rice pudding in North Wales and home-cooked Lancastrian dishes. He is passionate about accepting no substitutes and was inspired by Richard Olney
INTERVIEW: PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON LOWE, TOBY SCOTT, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES
FIRST FOOD MEMORY
Rice pudding! It was in North Wales in a little town called Criccieth, at the Marine Hotel. I was five years old and it was absolutely delicious. It had that golden tarpaulin-like (as my friend used to call it) skin and was creamy underneath. It became known as ‘only pudding’, because that’s what I wanted: only that pudding.
A HAPPY COMBINATION