There used to be an old lady who ran a fishmonger in Holyhead selling beautiful seafood caught in the bays and out in the Irish Sea. My favourite was the good old lobster, which was lifted from the water at Silver Bay, travelling a few miles to Holyhead, where it was sold to the fishmonger, then cooked and dressed for eager taste buds to enjoy.

ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK
These days the supermarket in Holyhead also sells lobster – not from the cool, nutritious waters off Anglesey but from Canada. The North American species is less tasty, and most of what we get over here is caught in factory ships, frozen and shipped to Hull, from where it travels in refrigerated vans all over the UK. Even my local Chinese takeaway in Rossendale, Lancashire (which is next door to a fishmonger), gets its lobsters from Canada, via Chi Yip cash and carry in Manchester.