He’s made an art of feasting on the fruits of land and sea and, as group head chef at River Cottage, he couldn’t be better placed to know when seasonal food is at its best. This month, Gill celebrates crayfish – an often overlooked delicacy in the UK
RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
I remember catching crayfish in traps that had been set around the edges of a lake in Dorset. I recall how plucky and determined these little freshwater lobsters were. They raised their claws in the air to scare me off and tried to nip me when I went near. They really didn’t want to come home with me. They were signal crayfish, an invasive species from North America, whose presence throughout our British waterways has sadly put paid to our native species. Knowing this made it far easier for me to cook them, despite their protests.
The month of May marks the beginning of the crayfish season, so it’s a good time to look out for them (see below). The meat from the tail is sweet and juicy and absolutely delicious served simply with brown bread, butter, chopped fresh dill and lemon juice. Alternatively, this quick and scrumptious salad with crisp radish, sharp apples and the toothsome crunch of poppy seeds showcases them beautifully.