RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER STYLING WEI TANG
STAR OF THE SEASON
Once its short season begins, British asparagus is never far from my plate. I serve it simply, dressed with no more than a slick of salted butter and a squeeze of lemon juice, or paired with freshly dressed crab and a sprinkle of chilli spice. Here I’ve showcased the grassy green shoots in two contrasting recipes: first, I’ve tossed the tender spears in a crisp tempura batter studded with sesame seeds and served them with a simple miso mayo for a punchy umami hit. Next, an asparagus salad that takes its lead from classic flavours – creamy roasted new potatoes with a spicy English mustard dressing, salty ham hock and a sprinkle of fresh mint leaves. SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR
HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST ASPARAGUS
Sweet, crisp asparagus is at its finest from May until the end of June. Choose firm spears, avoiding any with wrinkled or dry areas (dryness indicates the spears haven’t been freshly harvested). For maximum sweetness eat as soon as possible after buying. Store for up to two days in the fridge wrapped in a damp cloth or kitchen towel, or put the asparagus spears upright in a glass or jug with a little water at the bottom. If you’re lucky enough to find wild asparagus, it needs nothing more than a quick blanch in boiling water, then drain and toss it in salted butter for the best simple starter.
what’s good now.
ASPARAGUS SUPPLIED BY WYE VALLEY BRITISH ASPARAGUS