When the delicious. team test recipes they often debate the best ways to do things, as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. What fish is in season now, and what’s the best way to prepare and eat it? What does blind baking actually do – and how can I make the most of all those sweet, juicy in-season alphonso mangos? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your knowledge to the next level.
USE UP A GLUT OF…
ALPHONSO MANGOS
BY THANE PRINCE
Beautiful, fragrant alphonso mangos, imported from India, have an all-too-brief season. Here are some ways to use them while the divine abundance lasts.
PRESERVE Whizz 500g mango flesh (from 4-5 fruit) in a processor with 2 deseeded red chillies. Heat the purée gently in a pan with 450g preserving sugar (with added pectin), 75ml fresh lime juice and 150ml cold water. When the sugar dissolves, increase the heat and boil for 5 minutes until setting point is reached (105°C on a digital probe/sugar thermometer). Pot and seal in clean sterilised jars while still hot.
SALSA Finely chop the flesh of 2-3 ripe mangos, ½ red onion, 1 red chilli and a handful each of fresh mint and coriander leaves. Mix with the grated zest and juice of 1 lime, 1 tsp caster sugar and 1 tbsp white wine vinegar. Season to taste and serve with grilled pork steaks.
SORBET In a blender or processor, whizz the flesh from 3-4 mangos, 2 tbsp lemon juice and 200g caster sugar to the consistency of apple sauce. Freeze in a shallow container, stirring from time to time to break up the ice crystals, until solid.
The lowdown on… RAMEN
There are countless regional styles of this famed Japanese noodle dish, with variations on the type of broth, noodle and added ingredients. It’s the noodle soup that keeps on giving
THE BROTH
There are four main types. Three are based on the tare (seasoning) used to add salty depth to the broth. These are shio (salt-based), shoyu (soy saucebased) and miso (based on soy bean paste). These usually have flavourings such as garlic, mirin, dashi (seaweed stock), sake, mushrooms, ginger and other spices. The fourth type is tonkotsu, a broth made from pork bones. There are also variations in the base stock ingredients, consistency and clarity. Rich, opaque stocks, often made from long-boiled pork or beef bones, are known as kotteri (rich). Light, clear stocks, made from fish or shellfish, vegetables, seaweed or bones simmered for a shorter time, are known as assari (light). Then there are stocks made from chicken bones, known by their Chinese name, paitan.
THE NOODLES
Ramen noodles are made from wheat flour, salt, water and tiny quantities of kansui, or lye, an alkaline water that gives them their bouncy texture and yellow colour. In Japanese ramen shops, the noodles are likely to be fresh, though dried or frozen ones are good for home cooks. Different shapes suit different uses. Thin, straight noodles are generally used with richer, thicker tonkotsus, while thick, wavy ones are paired with miso. Ramen chefs believe the noodles should be eaten within five minutes of hitting the broth (which is why ramen eating is traditionally accompanied by loud slurping).
THE TOPPINGS
These vary, depending on the chef, season and region. Common additions include roast or braised pork belly, beansprouts, fishcakes, salted bamboo shoots, various forms of egg (hard, soft, raw, marinated), sweetcorn, seaweed and even, in lighter broths, a knob of butter, which is stirred in to add richness. Often chilli oil or a black garlic oil called mayu are drizzled on top.
To find out how to make your own ramen feast, turn to p86
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