voices in food.
PHOTOGRAPHS: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. FOOD STYLING: PHIL MUNDY. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER
Last year, we experienced a Christmas unlike any other. It was quieter, simpler, more contemplative. We put on a brave face, embraced Zoom and Skype, and laid the table only for those who lived under the same roof. While for some it might have been a secret relief to swerve the traditional excess and potential for extended-family tensions, for many it was a little too ascetic for our “waheeey, bring on the tinsel” tastes. So while I imagine a lot of us landed in January thinking we would be more thoughtful, less extravagant in future, I suspect this year we may not be able to resist the desire to go all out with the full bacchanalian, dancing-on-the-piano, eggnog-forbreakfast extravaganza, to make up for the lost good times.
And after such a quiet and gruelling year, why not embrace excess? After all that tight, planned, carefully choreographed fun, a great many of us have a desire to loosen our metaphorical stays, pour some double measures, sing along enthusiastically if tunelessly to Love Actually and campaign zealously for Terry’s Chocolate Oranges to be classified as their own food group (where do I sign?). We have been careful for so long. We are still careful. But perhaps we can be careful with jingle bells on?