The comune of Gavi lies in the southern extremes of Piedmont; in fact, it’s almost in Liguria, and used to be part of the Republic of Genoa, so it’s arguable that it has closer ties with Liguria than with the region within which it now resides. Gavi is a pretty town dominated by a Genoese fort and the Romanesque church of San Giacomo, and its restrained white wine has been produced here for more than a millennium. Promoted to DOCG status in 1998, Gavi is made with Cortese grapes and is typically pale green to straw yellow, occasionally with golden highlights, light and fruity with a dry freshness.