Shopping Cart -

Your cart is currently empty.
Upgrade to today
for only an extra Cxx.xx

You get:

plus This issue of xxxxxxxxxxx.
plus Instant access to the latest issue of 340+ of our top selling titles.
plus Unlimited access to 30000+ back issues
plus No contract or commitment. If you decide that PocketmagsPlus is not for you, you can cancel your monthly subscription online at any time. Auto-renews at $14.99 per month, unless cancelled.
Upgrade for $1.48
Then just $14.99 / month. Cancel anytime.
Learn more
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
AU
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the Australia version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Read anywhere Read anywhere
Ways to pay Pocketmags Payment Types
Trusted site
At Pocketmags you get
Secure Billing
Great Offers
Web & App Reader
Gifting Options
Loyalty Points

Plain Sailing

With more than a thousand islands and many sheltered bays between them, Croatia’s Adriatic coast is the ideal place to practise the art of sailing – especially for first-timers

@RGouldingTravel

The Skalice sails past Ravni Žakan – one of 89 small islands within Croatia’s Kornati National Park
PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS @laurajayneedwards

DAY 1: Sibenik to Zlarin

An olive tree stands next to a side door of Zlarin’s early 18th-century Church of the Assumption of Mary
Bowline on the bite.

It’s a golden late afternoon at the marina, and nothing is moving among the white forest of masts except for a lone swan; anybody with ambitious plans for the day has long since sailed. One mile away across a natural harbour, the quayside cafés of ibenik are filling up, as bells toll above the city’s stone streets. Almost exactly midway along the island-fringed Croatian coast, in the historic region of Dalmatia, this port makes a most fitting point to launch voyages of exploration.

Mate Bedrica at the wheel of the Skalice

Moored at one of the jetties in Mandalina Marina is the Skalice (pronounced ska-lit-say). At just over 13 metres long, the boat is built on a smaller scale to the megayachts moored nearby, but she fits three snug cabins and a kitchen below deck, and when her sails are up she can go at quite a pace. None of that is thanks to me, though; I start the week knowing little more about sailing than the difference between port, starboard, bow and stern (and I have to think about the last two).

READ MORE
Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - August 2016
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.