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Over the past 10 years, Seville has transformed itself. Once a traffic-congested metropolis resting on its historical laurels, Seville has bloomed into a city of bicycles and trams, keen to reinvigorate its artistic past. The metamorphosis hasn’t gone unnoticed. The capital of Andalucía will host the 31st European Film Awards in 2018, and showcases its good looks in the TV drama Game of Thrones. Adding to its artistic renaissance, Seville is celebrating the 400th anniversary of homegrown painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, with half a dozen one-of-a-kind expositions continuing into 2018. And yet Seville is a city of atmosphere as much as sights. Amid the orange trees and public processions, the mood is ever-changing, from the solemnity of Semana Santa (Holy Week) to the joy of the spring Feria. Whether sombre or joyous, life here is always lived passionately.


Seville has developed some of Spain’s most innovative tapas bars, but it also safeguards classics such as El Rinconcillo, a restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Spain (opened in 1670). For high-octane tapas bars with fusion food, head to Calle Betis in Triana, or the Alameda de Hércules.

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - December 2017
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