Shopping Cart -

Your cart is currently empty.
Upgrade to today
for only an extra Cxx.xx

You get:

plus This issue of xxxxxxxxxxx.
plus Instant access to the latest issue of 350+ of our top selling titles.
plus Unlimited access to 30000+ back issues
plus No contract or commitment. If you decide that PocketmagsPlus is not for you, you can cancel your monthly subscription online at any time. Auto-renews at $14.99 per month, unless cancelled.
Upgrade for $1.48
Then just $14.99 / month. Cancel anytime.
Learn more
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
AU
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the Australia version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Read anywhere Read anywhere
Ways to pay Pocketmags Payment Types
Trusted site
At Pocketmags you get
Secure Billing
Great Offers
Web & App Reader
Gifting Options
Loyalty Points

Eat, and cry for more

At mealtimes or cocktail hour, Portugal's second city proves it's no second fiddle. Explore Porto's culinary culture and discover a place with a huge appetite for life
A view across the Douro from Porto’s Ribeira district towards Vila Nova de Gaia, linked by the Dom Luís Bridge
Photographs ADRIENNE PITTS @hellopoe
Evening on Rua das Flores. Lef: Cod fritters and octopus salad at Tascö. Above, from lef: Avenida dos Aliados, outside Café Guarany; port-tonic at The George; A Pérola do Bolhão’s floral tiles
Douro views from Jardim do Morro. Above: Clams at The George. Far lef: Azulejo tiles on the church walls of Capela das Almas. Lef: Almond tart at Café Guarany

Shop where the locals do

Every morning, as the sun begins to strike Porto's stone streets and azulejo tile facades, young and old head out for their daily retail ritual. Eschewing the one-stop shop, they fill their bags with produce from the central market, Mercado do Bolhao, and the tiny grocery stores, mercearias, that populate surrounding streets. Each has its speciality, and the oldest, Mercearia do Bolhao, smells of smoked meat and coffee, with a base note of spices. A few doors up Rua Formosa is century-old A Perola do Bolhao ('the pearl of Bolhao'). Inside, owner Antonio Rodrigues Reis maintains a statesmanlike position at the till while his son Antonio Alves dos Reis serves customers, filling the crammed shop with joyful laughter when a pensioner buying its prized nuts cracks a joke.

READ MORE
Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - February 2019
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.