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The Rooster's Head in the Soup

In deepest Peru, a traveller is warmly welcomed into a family home and faces the dilemma of how to show appreciation of a rather terrifying dish


DO YOU EAT THE THING OR WHAT? lis a rooster's head and it's floating in the soup. You are in a dirt-floored hut. A two-room adobe family home up in what is called the Eyebrow of the [ungle, the Ceja de Selva, in the cloud forests of Peru. The Peruvian family has allowed you to camp on their little farm and now they've invited you to dinner. Out comes the first dish. It's a yellow soup. And there's a rooster's head floating in it. Skeletal thing: no skin or eyeballs. Nothing inside the cranial cavity at all.

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - July 2018
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