Shopping Cart -

Your cart is currently empty.
Upgrade to today
for only an extra Cxx.xx

You get:

plus This issue of xxxxxxxxxxx.
plus Instant access to the latest issue of 350+ of our top selling titles.
plus Unlimited access to 30000+ back issues
plus No contract or commitment. If you decide that PocketmagsPlus is not for you, you can cancel your monthly subscription online at any time. Auto-renews at $14.99 per month, unless cancelled.
Upgrade for $1.48
Then just $14.99 / month. Cancel anytime.
Learn more
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
AU
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the Australia version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Read anywhere Read anywhere
Ways to pay Pocketmags Payment Types
Trusted site
At Pocketmags you get
Secure Billing
Great Offers
Web & App Reader
Gifting Options
Loyalty Points

Pintxo

Nowhere does bar snacks like San Sebastián, with its Basque take on that Spanish staple, tapas. Forgo the city’s Michelin stars for a tour of its more budget-friendly miniature cuisine

@orlathomas

IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT

The city beach of Playa de la Concha in San Sebastián. Right:Pintxos piled high at Bar Gandarias
PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES, MARK READ

ASK SPANIARDS ABOUT THE origins of tapas and each will give you a different answer, but all agree on one thing - it began in the bars. Tapa means 'cover' in Spanish, and these snacks were once just that, an edible lid for a glass of wine or beer. Traditionally they were simple offerings that fuelled the evening's real focus: drinking and talking. But in San Sebastian, on Spain's northern coast, the bar snack is taken rather more seriously.

This is the home of the pintxo - in its simplest form a single portion of food speared (pintxo means 'spike') onto a piece of bread. San Sebastian's location, with the Bay of Biscay on one side and the fertile green lands of the Basque Country on the other, means it enjoys a plentiful supply of premium pintxo ingredients. Mercado de la Bretxa is a showroom for the region's produce, and it's here - among shoppers poring over fragrant olives and line-caught fish piled high on chipped ice - that I meet Gabriella Ranelli, a guide who's worked in the city for over 20 years.

READ MORE
Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - July 2018
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.