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THE GRIM REALISATION THAT WE were on the wrong bus hit us when we pulled into a motorway service station at about 7am. The sun was rising and a swarm of Turkish watermelon sellers had descended on our parking space with quite alarming gusto for that time in the morning. The driver marched up the aisle of the bus yelling ‘Göreme’ very loudly and jabbing his finger at the horizon, just in case anyone had managed to sleep through the watermelons. Bleary eyed, my friend clocked first that ‘Göreme’ did not sound much like ‘Ephesus’ – our intended destination. We were in fact on the way to Cappadocia, and had missed Ephesus by a country mile. I was distraught; my carefully planned nerd pilgrimage to Ephesus’ Temple of Artemis was in tatters. The strange thing was, Cappadocia ended up being the highlight of our trip. We had our favourite adventures among this desert’s cone-shaped rock formations and colourful valleys which were all the better, we thought, precisely because they were so unexpected.

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - July 2018
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