CITY TRAIL
Ducking through the whip-thin lanes of the souqs, as the midday sun rakes through the slatted roof, you hear, then see a metalworker hammering a brass lantern into a thousand pinprick stars. Another bend and you enter the funduqs, the great caravanserais now given over to wood, leather and brass workers, who only pause from their chiselling and tapping when the muezzin’s raspy call to prayer drifts over the medina’s rooftops.