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Apple strudel

Our quest heads in search of the best version of this truly Austrian dessert in Vienna’s historic cafés, and also tests some experiments with the classic recipe

IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT

The apple strudel at Vienna’s palatial Demel, open since 1786 and once the supplier of cakes and confectionery to Habsburg royalty
Photos SONJA PRILLER @prillersonja

AS GRAND AND GLORIOUS AS VIENNA IS, it's a city that can feel hard to grasp, with bombastic Habsburg palaces, decorous - at times standoffish - coffee houses and notoriously crotchety waiters. But if there's a direct route to nostalgic Viennese hearts (and stomachs), it's apfelstrudel.

Mention it and you'll be rewarded with memories of mornings spent with Oma (Grandma) in the kitchen, up to the elbows in fat and flour, cinnamon and icing sugar; of earlyautumn days, gathering windfall apples to be sliced, layered and rolled, into thin, snakelike pastry. For Austrians, apple strudel is childhood. Every bite tastes of the past.

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - November 2018
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