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Digital Subscriptions > Lonely Planet Traveller (UK) > November 2018 > Apple strudel

Apple strudel

Our quest heads in search of the best version of this truly Austrian dessert in Vienna’s historic cafés, and also tests some experiments with the classic recipe


The apple strudel at Vienna’s palatial Demel, open since 1786 and once the supplier of cakes and confectionery to Habsburg royalty
Photos SONJA PRILLER @prillersonja

AS GRAND AND GLORIOUS AS VIENNA IS, it's a city that can feel hard to grasp, with bombastic Habsburg palaces, decorous - at times standoffish - coffee houses and notoriously crotchety waiters. But if there's a direct route to nostalgic Viennese hearts (and stomachs), it's apfelstrudel.

Mention it and you'll be rewarded with memories of mornings spent with Oma (Grandma) in the kitchen, up to the elbows in fat and flour, cinnamon and icing sugar; of earlyautumn days, gathering windfall apples to be sliced, layered and rolled, into thin, snakelike pastry. For Austrians, apple strudel is childhood. Every bite tastes of the past.

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About Lonely Planet Traveller (UK)

In the November issue… follow an ancient pilgrim trail through Japan's forested hills; pick from the best of Bruges on a mini-break; feel the change in the seasons at one of nine atmospheric autumn escapes; set out from Denver's emerging neighbourhoods into the heart of the Rockies on a Great Escape to Colorado; step aboard five of Europe's greatest train journeys; and much more