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After dark in Budapest

Night time suits Hungary's capital, with restaurants, bars and entertainment venues galore. Find equal pleasure inside a grand relic of imperial times, or a 'ruinpub' housed in a semi-derelict building.

EATING

Baraka FUSION £££

(barakarestaurant.hu; V Dorottya utca 6)

If you only eat in one fine-dining establishment while in Budapest, make it Baraka. You're ushered into the monochrome dining room, where chef Andre Bicalho works his magic in the half-open kitchen. Seafood features heavily, with French, Asian and Hungarian elements to the beautifully presented dishes. The bar, with its vast array of Japanese whiskies and pan-Asian tapas, is a treat.

Karpatia HUNGARIAN ££

(karpatia.hu;V Ferenciek tere 7-8)

A palace of fin-de-siecle design dating from 1877, the 'Carpathia' serves almost-modern Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities in both a palatial restaurant in the back and a less-expensive sorozo (brasserie). The mostly meaty dishes - such as veal stew with paprika sauce - are expertly prepared and the Hungarian wine list is solid. This is one place to hear authentic csardas (Gypsy-style folk music), played from 6pm to 11pm.

Mandragora HUNGARIAN ££

(mandragorakavehaz.hu; II Kacsa utca 22)

With a hint of black magic in its name and a cosy location in the basement of a residential block, this family-run restaurant has earned fans with its excellent takes on Hungarian classics. Feast on slow-cooked duck with red cabbage and delicious pearl-barley risotto.

Muzeum HUNGARIAN £££

(muzeumkavehaz.hu; VIII Muzeum korut 12)

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Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Lonely Planet - November 2018
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