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Digital Subscriptions > National Geographic Traveller (UK) > Jan/Feb 2019 > RICHMOND

RICHMOND

Virginia’s capital is undergoing a gastronomic revolution, with local chefs locking back to cook up everything from barbecued brisket to French-inspired fancies. Words: Audrey Gillan
Main Street Station
Dessert at L’Opossum
IMAGES: ALAMY; BETTY CLICKER PHOTOGRAPHY

They call it the Richmond Curse. Once under its spell, it’s said, those who leave this Southern American city almost always return. Some claim the curse dates back to Native American chief Powahatan, who allegedly hexed the British colonists who irst landed in Virginia in 1607. The city’s current mayor, Levar Stoney, recently joked: “I’ve seen a lot of people leave … and a lot of them come back. So maybe there’s some truth to it?”

Also dubbed the ‘Richmond boomerang’, the city’s lure has led to a culinaryrenaissance, due in large part to talented chefs returning from plying their trade in far-lung cities.

The hip kitchens of Richmond may be full of tattooed arms — this is, according to website TotalBeauty.com, the third most inked place in America — but they’re also dotted with James Beard Foundation Award (for culinary excellence) nominees. They include Brittany Anderson, chef-co-owner of two of Richmond’s buzziest restaurants: Metzger Bar & Butchery, and Brenner Pass. She describes her food as “rustic and sexy”, and the tasting menu at Metzger is certainly both.

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About National Geographic Traveller (UK)

We reveal the destinations that made our Cool List 2019 — from booming gastronomic hotspots to up-and-coming cities, this is the last word in where you should visit in the year to come. Elsewhere, we explore the wild side of Quebec’s national parks; leave our shoes behind on Colombia’s barefoot Pacific coast; and spend a long weekend in Bornholm. Other highlights this issue include Kuala Lumpur, Richmond, Prague, Marrakech and Taipei while our photo story joins the wild horse herders in Iceland’s rural east.