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Digital Subscriptions > Newsweek International > 29th April 2016 > WHEN THE FOAM BUBBLE BURST


ElBulli put Catalonia at the heart of the food world, but Barcelona chefs are increasingly returning to their roots


FOR ABOUT 20 YEARS, Catalan cuisine was defined by the surreal genius of the cooks at elBulli, a seaside restaurant on Catalonia’s Costa Brava. With elBulli as their base, brothers Ferran and Albert Adrià became two of the most famous chefs in the world. The closure of elBulli in 2011 was international news. During his years at the restaurant, Ferran Adrià had become a master at using foams and culinary deconstruction to enhance flavor. My last meal at elBulli consisted of 49 plates, including his signature dish of small spheres that appear to be olives but in fact are olive oil encased in edible gum. And there were even more bizarre dishes, such as blackberry risotto with hare sauce, as well as raw and cooked shrimp served with a paste made from its brains.

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