Shopping Cart -

Your cart is currently empty.
Upgrade to today
for only an extra Cxx.xx

You get:

plus This issue of xxxxxxxxxxx.
plus Instant access to the latest issue of 350+ of our top selling titles.
plus Unlimited access to 30000+ back issues
plus No contract or commitment. If you decide that PocketmagsPlus is not for you, you can cancel your monthly subscription online at any time. Auto-renews at $14.99 per month, unless cancelled.
Upgrade for $1.48
Then just $14.99 / month. Cancel anytime.
Learn more
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
Pocketmags Digital Magazines
   You are currently viewing the Australia version of the site.
Would you like to switch to your local site?
Read anywhere Read anywhere
Ways to pay Pocketmags Payment Types
Trusted site
At Pocketmags you get
Secure Billing
Great Offers
Web & App Reader
Gifting Options
Loyalty Points

Back to Ikland

Mount Morungole is an island in the sky, hovering far above the plains and valleys of northern Uganda’s Kidepo Valley National Park. Mark Eveleigh treks into the highland home of the mysterious Ik tribe and discovers the truth about the community that was once portrayed as the world’s nastiest people
Children play outside the protective kraal at their village, Nalemoru — aptly meaning ‘village on a high point’ — on the slopes of Morungole Mountain, northern Uganda

I really have no idea how old I am”, Mzee Mateus Yeya Acok tells me through a snaggletooth smile, “but I think I might even be 2000 years old.” Mateus is sitting, with his stork-thin legs tucked under him, outside his village high on the slopes of Morungole. His tribe, the Ik (numbering about 10,000 people), are known as one of the remotest and most culturally intact tribes in East Africa. Their recent history has been a dramatic and heart-rending cycle of famine and slaughter at the hands of more powerful tribes. It’s not surprising that old Mateus feels like he might have lived through two millennia.

Philip Akorongimoe has been a guide with the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) for 17 years and, although a Dodoth tribesman, he’s become a friend of the Ik — iciebam in the Ik language — through the course of countless visits to the highland villages that have become their last stronghold. Philip and I confer momentarily and calculate that Mateus must be around 85-90 years old since he was already a respected village leader when a selfproclaimed iciebam by the name of Colin Turnbull visited the region.

Purchase options below
Find the complete article and many more in this issue of Travel Africa - January-March 2018 (81)
If you own the issue, Login to read the full article now.
Single Digital Issue
January-March 2018 (81)
This issue and other back issues are not included in a new Travel Africa subscription. Subscriptions include the latest regular issue and new issues released during your subscription.
Annual Digital Subscription
Only $ 5.75 per issue

View Issues

About Travel Africa

Tracking cheetahs in South Africa's Mountain Zebra National Park • Why you should visit Zimbabwe NOW • The IK Factor • Wildlife lover's guide to Zambia • Secret Sierra Leone • Unusual places to stay • Kenya's great lakes • Birding in Malawi • 48 hours in Windhoek... and much more!