It’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas. In addition to decking the halls, food writer Lucas Hollweg is squirrelling away all manner of ingredients to keep crowds happily fed – and last-minute panics under control

Prune and apple sausage rolls, p40

PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL AND ELLA TARN STYLING MORAG FARQUHAR

“You’ve probably long since grown used to the seasonal jingles wafting cheerily down the aisles of your local shops. The initial tingle of festive expectation is mixed, in my case at least, with a growing awareness that I need to get organised. It’s not so much to do with the preparations for Christmas Day itself. It’s making sure I’m ready for all those other bits of random socialising that seem to happen at this time of year – the mate who is ‘just passing’, or the friends who pop in for a drink and end up staying for supper. A well-stocked fridge and cupboards help take the stress out of the whole business.

So what should you have up your sleeve? Well, perhaps the makings of a quick canapé or two; a few bits and bobs you can heat up in the oven; a crowd-pleasing salad that works with cold meat and cheese; a pudding that can be whipped out with a fanfare – ‘ta-da’. Add a storecupboard filled with the sort of versatile ingredients that can be pressed into service at short notice and you’re ready to go.”

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LUCAS HOLLWEG Food writer in residence No 4

My magic storecupboard

FRESH HORSERADISH I keep a fresh root to grate into crème fraîche. Obviously good with beef, but also with beetroot and smoked fish. I sometimes make a borschstyle soup from leftover red cabbage and serve it with a blob of horseradish cream on top.

SMOKED FISH So very versatile. Not just salmon, but trout, whole smoked mackerel, halibut, sprats. Smoked fish and horseradish is a great instant starter or something to pile on bread for canapés. Add sliced red onions, quickly pickled in salt, sugar and red wine vinegar. Keep a couple of tins of decent anchovies as well.

CURED MEATS Ham is traditional for Boxing Day but having some salami or slicing chorizo means you always have something to nibble with a drink over the holiday. Buy a chunk and slice it yourself – it will keep longer. It’s also worth having stuff like ‘nduja (a spicy, spreadable Italian sausage) to use in canapés and bowls of pasta.

BREAD IN THE FREEZER Stock up on more than you think you might need. Freeze sliced baguettes and sourdough loaves so you can whip up crostini for canapés, or bruschetta.