Red

editor’s note

Over the past decade of editing Lonely Planet magazine, I’ve

FITZROY & COLLINGWOOD

Melbourne local Sofia Levin leads us on a tour of her neighbourhood, the city’s inner north, taking in croissants, steam baths and graiti

Check in at the Beat Hotel

What began as a beat generation-inspired stage at Glastonbury is

Bali

It’s now possible to fly direct to Bali, as national

A win for wildlife

Argentina has a new national park – and it’s home to the mighty jaguar

The Bull Hotel, Fairford

A classic Cotswolds inn with stone-built charm, wood panelling and excellent pie

Bergen beckons

For a bite-sized sampling of the wonders of Norway, take

New US hotels

These reasonably priced, stylish stays make American accommodation great again

Cultural capital

You’re most likely familiar with the annual anointing of European

The passport

Turn a new page in the story of a modern travel essential

What to pack for an island adventure

Perfect for wating from lounging spot to beach shack and

Mobile, home

As if a hotel on skis weren’t impressive enough, this

Steady on

Adjust your pace with a two-wheeled tour of Romania or beyond

Join the carnival in Brazil

When the world’s biggest carnival fills Rio’s streets, bars and Sambódromo venue, it’s a celebration that’s central to Brazilian life. Book hotel rooms or apartments at least nine months ahead, and start practising your samba moves now for carnival in 2020

Edinburgh and the East

New National Museum of Scotland galleries will showcase artefacts from Asia and Ancient Egypt

Ahoy there, sailor

If a seafaring voyage doesn't seem imminently feasible, consider an

PHOTO TOUR

Central Asia has an embarrassment of riches when it comes

Swallow this

Lonely Planet staf spill the beans on their most memorable food and drink encounters, from deep-fried bugs and sautéed brains to death-defying sundowners

and the beach goes on

David Behar seeks shelters on the vivid white sands of South Beach, Miami

Local scenes in Sri Lanka

Illustrator Polly Crossman recalls tuk-tuks, trunks and wobbly two-wheelers

What I've learned ... as a blind traveller

Amar Latif is director of Traveleyes, a company that arranges small-group tours for blind and sighted travellers

HOW TO SPEAK Hawaiian

Hawaii is a long way from anywhere else, yet many words in the ancient language of the islands have meanings that reach across oceans. Discover them on a journey to both ends of the archipelago: Hawai‘i (aka the Big Island), and deep-green Kaua‘i

Pik’n’ mix Valletta

See in the return of spring in Malta: we look to its capital and to excursions across this island nation, for a variety of short break ideas that you can tailor to your taste

ISLAND Life

Cast ashore on tropical sands, count the bunnies in Japan or follow Jedi knights, jerk practitioners or Moomins to ind your own wonderfully diferent island paradise

Travel Photographer of the Year

Our editors’ favourite images by finalists in this year’s competition, transporting us from the intense heat of Namibia to the deep chill of northern Russia. See more at tpoty.com, including details of an exhibition of the winners that starts in London on 28 March

Time warp

Discover a uniquely Italian form of nostalgia on the Coppa Franco Mazzotti – a classic car rally from Brescia to Lake Garda

City Of rhythm

Welcome to diverse Dakar, capital of Senegal, where reggae resounds around former slave quarters, downtown nightclubs throb with world beats and homegrown pop, and the sounds of the djembe drum and kora are as vital as ever

MAKE IT HAPPEN Dakar

Sometimes you have to get lost to find what you’re

SONGS IN THE KEY OF LIFE

From virtual conducting in Mozart’s Vienna to fleeting moments of duende in Seville, and all-singing, all-dancing Havana nights, tune into soulful experiences in the world’s most musical cities

UNSEEN GRAND CANYON

As the Grand Canyon celebrates 100 years as a national park, we take an epic of-season walk to the bottom of the mighty crevasse

Best of the Isle of Wight

There’s still something groovy in the air on the Isle of Wight. There’s all the classic fun of the Great British seaside to be had, and the island is ideal for making the most of bicycle hire and relaxed seafood dining

Romantic Paris

Beyond its backdrop of magniicent monuments, Paris’s magic lies in the unexpected: hidden parks, small bistros and cafés where you can watch local life unfold. Here are our top tips for a romantic break

Eating in Naples

Naples has raw, high-octane energy; it’s a place of soul-stirring street life and unexpected, inimitable elegance. It’s also one of Italy’s epicurean heavyweights. Read on to ind its best pizza, pasta and espresso

Weekend in Vilnius

Vilnius, the Baroque beauty of the Baltic, is a city of immense allure. The Lithuanian capital might feel like an overgrown village in parts, but it has a cutting-edge side, too. Read on for our picks on a weekend break

Drinking in Rio

When it comes to good times, Rio de Janeiro lives up to its nickname: ‘Cidade Maravilhosa’ (Marvellous City). Here’s our pick of the best places to get a drink in Brazil’s second most populous city

Singapore on a budget

Mix new architecture and hip boutiques with smoky temples and old food markets, and you have a taste of Singapore. Find out how to make the most of the island nation if you’re visiting on a budget

What on Earth?

1 Five-spice is a flavouring mainly used in which country’s