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Digital Subscriptions > Lonely Planet Traveller (UK) > October 2018 > ultimate EATS

ultimate EATS

Pack your passport and loose-fitting clothing, and join us on a tour of the world’s most memorable food experiences


Grab a slice of smorrebrod, Copenhagen's bread of heaven

Want to know what the best thing is since sliced bread? Danish smorrebrod, that's what. Take a slice of rye bread, butter it, then heap it with whatever tasty ingredients you like.

Actually, it's not that simple. There are some rules that help elevate smorrebrod beyond a piece of bread with toppings. Thin toppings go on first, followed by the bulkier kind; second, when eating more than one kind of smorrebrod at once (this is always the case -good luck stopping at one) you start with the slice that features herring, move on to other fish, then meat and finish with cheese. This sequence is designed to walk your palate through the flavour combinations, so that one never overpowers the other.

There are some classic combinations you'll see all over Denmark: pickled herring, onion and dill; mayonnaise, boiled egg, shrimp, dill and lemon; roast beef, pickles, onions and horseradish. But these are just a tiny sample of the almost limitless number of toppings.

Copenhagen's smorrebrod institution, Restaurant Schonnemann, has been serving the open-faced sandwich since 1877. The presentation is so delicate it resembles sushi. Try the following for an ultimate smorrebrod experience, otherwise known as the world's best sandwich degustation: herring marinated in dill cream with capers, onions and a fried egg; smoked salmon and halibut with a crab and mayonnaise salad, tomato and basil; a breaded cutlet of pork with apples, thyme and onions; and camembert with blackcurrant jam. And to drink? Why, there's 140 different schnapps, aquavit and genevers to choose from. That should do nicely.


For the ultimate sandwich tasting, head to, or grab a takeaway box from Aamanns (



When night falls over Athens, tuck into souvlaki

It's late-night in Athens and the seductive aroma of herby grilling meats is beckoning you towards an open doorway. The Greek take on the nocturnal flatbread sandwich format is fresher and healthier than most. A souvla ki is composed of g rilled meat (chicken, pork, lamb or even beef), a salad of tomato, red onion and cucumber, and some refreshing tzatziki, all wrapped in a large soft flatbread. The meat is the crucial ingredient. Skewers of small chunks are grilled and flavoured with herbs, salt and lemon juice. Vegetarians are not forgotten: a grilled halloumi souvlaki is an equally wondrous end to a legendary night out in Athens.


In the swanky district of Kolonaki, head for Kalamaki Kolonaki at Ploutarhou 32. If you’re in Gazi, Elvis (Plateon 29) offers a shot of booze with your souv and a side order of the King.


Slurp down Tasmanian oysters straight from the ocean

Whether you chew first or swallow ’em straight down, if you’re an oyster-lover you owe yourself a pilgrimage to the bivalve mollusc motherland of Tasmania. For fans of fresh shellfish, the whole east coast is a dream destination, from beautiful Bruny Island in the south to the spectacular Freycinet Peninsula in the north. With a national park occupying most of the peninsula, you’ll find yourself immersed in granite rock formations jutting above soft sandy beaches and tranquil bays opening onto the Tasman Sea. Operating within the wetlands and estuaries are the Pacific oyster farms that draw so many seafood aficionados. At Freycinet Marine Farm, you can buy a dozen oysters straight from the sea to enjoy at a nearby beach or at the farm’s picnic tables. Or take a tour to see how the industry works firsthand, from incubation to grading.

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October 2018 Issue of Lonely Planet