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Digital Subscriptions > National Geographic Traveller (UK) > December 2018 > FIFE

FIFE

Fife is connected to neighbouring regions by six bridges, but when it comes to food, it’s gloriously self-sufficient, with meat, tatties, oats, just-caught shellfish, and unique seaweeds just some of its hyper-local treasures. Words: Audrey Gillan
FROM LEFT: A dessert from Craig Millar @16 West End restaurant; St Monans on the Fife Coastal Path

There’s a salty tang on the breeze as I watch a canoeist paddle out on the Firth of Forth, herring gulls — known here as ‘maws’ — swooping overhead. Beyond the wall where I sit there’s a rocky beach, and in the other direction, a little harbour arm cradling a cluster of small boats. I’m in St Monans, one of a number of lovely villages with whitewashed buildings topped with steeped gable roofs, that shine like pearls threaded on the necklace that is the East Neuk of Fife. It’s sunny enough to sit on this sublimely situated patio with a starter of pickled mackerel, followed by a perfect, wobbly goat’s cheese souffle. My Fife-born, London-living foodie pal has nudged me in the direction of Craig Millar @16 West End, promising fabulous cooking in a spectacular location. As the wind picks up I move in to the shelter of the dining room, and a table with a picture window on to that glorious view. The fillet of cod, in an Arbroath smokie dashi, with samphire, peas, brown shrimp and Ratte potatoes is exquisite.

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About National Geographic Traveller (UK)

This month, we ditch the jeep to discover Africa from a different perspective. Whether on foot, by boat or hot air balloon, we’re showcasing the continent’s wild side on an active safari across Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and more. We go north of Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland; discover Japan’s Tohoku region; and spend a long weekend in Vilnius. Other highlights this issue include Lima, Fife, Budapest, San Francisco and Turin, while our photo story unearths the tradition of gold panning in Costa Rica.