As you approach the northern Greek city of Kozani, which stands on a plateau surrounded by mountains, you start to see smoke—thick white clouds floating above the knotty shrubs and sun-dappled hills of Western Macedonia. This is the heart of Greece’s coal industry; the plumes come from the chimneys of power stations dotted around the region.
HERE TO STAY: In March, Macedonia sealed its border with Greece, leaving tens of thousands of refugees trapped in Greece, which had previously been mainly a transit route for people heading farther north. Soon after, the EU and Turkey agreed to send back migrants to Turkey, sparking protests.
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