IN FULL FLIGHT: The grey (or southern) crowned-crane, is the national bird of Uganda, yet it is now an endangered species
Silence. Suddenly. The maniacal shrieking that has ripped through Kibale Forest National Park for the last three minutes stops abruptly, as though unplugged at the wall. The chimps, wherever they are, appear to have calmed down.
The forest breathes again. We take a break, rummaging for packed lunches and finding seats among vinefestoonedbuttress roots.