Rising before the sun always feels counterintuitive, like your internal body clock is begging you to close your eyes and go back to sleep because no human should ever start their day before the sun starts hers, but despite grumbling to my husband that maybe it wasn’t worth it and maybe we should catch the sun set at the much more social time of later, rather than the sun rise, I’m glad he didn’t listen. Witnessing the sun burst through the clouds at the top of the Roque de los Muchachos was one of the most spectacular moments of my life.