Traditional black tarred timber and grass roofs, Faroe Islands
IMAGES: GETTY; CLAES BECH-POULSEN
The glory of golden hour enfolds me as I arrive at a little hut on wheels sitting on the edge of Lake Leynar, a half-hour’s drive from the Faroese capital, Tórshavn. Such clement weather is never a given up here in these islands where thick fog and rain have currently settled on one side of a mountain, sunshine illuminating the other. I climb the steps into what’s essentially a fermentation shed that doubles as a greeting place for guests, where I’m met with a glass of locally brewed beer and a warming bowl of clear lamb broth. This is the first stop on an adventure into the strange and stunning food of the Faroe Islands.
Fellow diners warmly salute each other then pile into a Land Rover that skirts around a shingle beach to take us to our destination. Koks sits in a lush valley surrounded by waterfalls and the sound of oystercatchers.