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16 MIN READ TIME

WHAT TO DRINK

THE BARGAIN WHITE

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delicious. Magazine
February 2019
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Other Articles in this Issue


Delicious UK
WELCOME TO
What makes you hungry? Is it enticing, almost edible
THE SUPER-EASY RECIPE
MAKES 1.2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, PLUS 4 DAYS
February moments…
If you’ve never tasted Tom Kitchin’s brilliant but
READ ALL ABOUT IT
FROM OUR INBOX…
What a fabulous article from Debora Robertson in the
FOR STARTERS
NEWS, NIBBLES OF KNOWLEDGE AND GOOD THINGS TO DO RIGHT NOW
A SLICE OF MY LIFE Rachel Allen
The Irish food writer, baker and presenter talks about her passion for simple food and the pioneering cooks who inspired her career
Wish list
How do you decide what to buy? These revamped, expanded pages are designed to help you make your choices. Everything you see and read about here has been chosen from the hundreds of products we see, test and try out. Only the most useful, most beautiful and best value for money make it onto these pages
Why we need a better language for food-love
An honest appreciation of good grub is to be applauded – but why is the terminology used to describe the objects of our afection often so toe-curling? Debora Robertson explores the lexicon of food and finds a whole glossary of cringe-making words and expressions that have her reaching for the kitchen knife
THE ULTIMATE PORCHETTA
Winter weekends offer the perfect excuse to spend time in the kitchen coaxing flavours from great ingredients. This magnificent centrepiece by chef Nicholas Balfe calls for overnight marinating followed by slow roasting – and it’s so worth it
In the moment… FEBRUARY
WITH GREY SKIES, BITING WINDS AND SNOW FORECAST, WHAT
Where life is sweet and the welcome warm (once the snow melts)
When winter begins to loosen its icy grip, there’s cause for celebration in Quebec – and it’s not just because spring is around the corner. Claire Nelson visited a traditional sugar shack during maple season and had a come-back-for-more taste of the local hospitality
SUBSCRIPTION
If you’ve seen this month’s bumper-sized Tastes Like
Make it HEALTHIER
FOR A BRIGHTER, FEEL GOOD FEBRUARY
TEST REPORT
Clodagh’s Suppers by Clodagh McKenna (Kyle Books £20)
Northcote: Lancashire’s finest
WHY IT’S GREAT There’s a real sense of homeliness here
@130-1@Stop hijacking hygge!
The idea of hygge is one that appeals to the better part of human nature, says ScandiKitchen owner Brontë Aurell. It’s about appreciating the charm of the everyday, enjoying the free things in life and sharing good times with others. So how did it get co-opted by the marketing people into another opportunity to sell stuff?
YOUR RECIPE INSPIRATION
Cheese toasties
It’s the ultimate anytime snack, that perfect comfort moment, and we have three new takes on it: an updated rarebit with mushrooms, a genius leftovers idea for macaroni cheese and a toasted version of an American classic – the Philly cheesesteak. Pass the condiments…
Staying in is the new going out
A top movie plus star-studded food equals a sureire hit. Kay Plunkett-Hogge (food writer) and Fred Hogge (movie buf) pool their talents again to make a magical February night in. Action!
Pomegranates
Rich in colour and lavour, pomegranates are remarkably
’’I care deeply about feeding people well’’
Chef Dan Doherty is never happier than when he’s in the kitchen at home rustling up fuss-free, flavoursome dishes – the sort of food that makes people feel special. The recipes here, gathered from his new book, show just how much warmth and heart there is in his cooking, each dish a joy to cook, eat and share
Chicken parmigiana
Crunchy escalopes, tomato sauce and melted cheese… This dish, re-created here by Debbie Major, is an Italian-American invention. It’s thought that, prompted by the abundance of meat in the US, Italian cooks added a twist to aubergine parmigiana and – bada bing – it’s now a classic
How to cure February-itis
The relentless winter darkness needn’t extend to the kitchen – or your dinner plate – and our regular writer Georgina Hayden knows the dishes to banish the blues. Yes, it’s time to bring out your inner child
Judy Joo’s Korean fried chicken
KFC (that’s Korean fried chicken) emerged from the
Ching’s Chinese New Year MASTERCLASS
Chinese New Year is a celebration full of symbolism, says food writer and TV chef Ching-He Huang. We asked her to give deputy food editor Sophie Austen-Smith a training session in how to cook a traditional feast to welcome in the Year of the Pig – and to give an insight into why the ingredients are chosen with such care
The best crumb-free breakfast in bed
Sweet, salty and spiced, these pancakes are perfect for Valentine’s Day morning
The Valentine’s Day PUDDING
If you’re planning a romantic feast for two, this is a ine way to round of the meal. There’s a degree of efort involved in making the crisp pastry, rich pistachio frangipane and fragrant apple roses, but I promise you it’s worth it – for Valentine’s Day or any time.
MANCHESTER TART
Debbie Major scours the British recipe archives on the lookout for traditional recipes that are ripe for revival – and a place on our plates. First up, a sweet northern favourite that might take you straight back to your schooldays
OTHER GOOD THINGS
WIN! A lakeside spa break
The Lake Country House Hotel & Spa in Wales, a past Spa Hotel of the Year winner, is offering you the chance to win a relaxing weekend break*
COOK THE COVER
…and win a Falk Culinair copper cookware set
A cook’s year PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI
From this month, Gill Meller is taking a diferent approach to his column, focusing on a favourite in-season vegetable or fruit. His recipe brings much needed spice, fragrance and wholesome warmth to the dark days of winter
THE HEALTH DEBRIEF
FAD-FREE insight DEBUNKED food & health news
BETTER THAN A TAKEAWAY
Everyone loves the occasional Indian or Chinese, but re-creating your favourite flavours at home is cheaper, better for you – and these recipes can be ready in less time than it takes you to dial in a delivery
THE BUDGET MEAL
A sharp salsa verde gives a smart update to a thrifty supper of moules frites
next month.
PLUS O Game-changer ingredient: miso O Are you eating
THE LEFTOVERS RECIPE
A winning winter supper based on a classic Italian pasta dish
THE PLANT-BASED MEAL
Our take on a Moroccan tagine is packed with warming spices and seasonal veg
THE 5:2 RECIPE
This healthy supper is full of fresh flavours and also ticks the quick-and-simple-to-make box
CREAMY PASTA BAKE
The perennial family favourite gets the light touch with a healthy boost of vegetables
THE BATCH-COOK RECIPE
Hearty one-pan comfort food is what everyone craves at this time of year, and a sausage casserole never fails to please – particularly when the leftovers make another filling meal
TAKE A PACK OF… HALLOUMI
If our team had to pick their top 10 ingredients for a fridge-raid supper, this salty, savoury cheese would be a shoo-in. Try it in these weeknight recipes
Should you ditch dairy from your diet?
There was a time when a glass of milk symbolised good, wholesome nutrition. Not any more, it seems. Sue Quinn finds out whether the white stuff’s tarnished reputation is justified – and comes to a surprising conclusion
’’I love creating recipes that are effortlessly good for you’’
Healthy home cooking is what Chetna Makan’s new book is all about. The best surprise? How little efort is involved in the Bake Of star’s lavoursome, family-pleasing recipes
THE BEST FILL-YOUUP LUNCHBOXES
Three brilliant ways to keep you satisfied all day – without the meat or fish
LOOSE ENDS
Don’t let this month’s special ingredients linger in your kitchen. Instead make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
BE A BET TER COOK
11 PAGES OF TIPS AND KNOW-HOW TO GET YOU COOKING SMARTER, FASTER AND WITH GREATER CONFIDENCE
PRIZE CROSSWORD
Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to
BE A BETTER COOK
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN…
While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. Is there a way to eke out the season of forced rhubarb? Is ‘eating with the seasons’ as practical and desirable as many make out? Why are some oysters available year-round and others only from September to April? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your knowledge to the next level
FISH OF THE MONTH: OYSTERS
BY CJ JACKSON, CEO OF THE SEAFOOD SCHOOL AT BILLINGSGATE
CHEESE SOUFFLÉ
It’s one of the classics, yet many cooks shy away from it. Once you understand and master the technique, though – thickening the base, whisking the egg whites to perfect peaks – making a soufflé becomes a joy. Our recipe is flavoured with the sweet nuttiness of roasted squash, the tang of quality cheese and a touch of fruity acidity
GIANT KOUIGN AMANN
“This wonderful rich cakepastry is made with a layered