Local guide, Ibrahim in Giza.
LEAVING CAIRO airport by Uber, we sped along the raised freeway that snakes through the cityscape. Here and there, mosques and minarets broke the rooflines of modern buildings among the beautifully crumbling older ones.
Terror attacks on tourists, the arrests of gay men, and political unrest in Egypt has hit tourism hard. Yet, despite my concerns, I was excited to be here.