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THE CITY THAT DOES WINTER BEST

VIENNA

Vienna’s town hall in the snow

hungry traveller.

The cold-and-frosty months are the prime time to enjoy this grand city’s bare-branched elegance and architectural opulence, the chill air sharpening the appetite for hearty Austrian cooking. Alexander Lobrano sniffs out the best places to indulge

The woman in the cocoa-coloured mink coat saw my double-take as I approached. “You thought I was walking an invisible dog, “ she chuckled. It’s true – from afar her Dalmatian blended into the snowy Vienna cityscape so well I’d almost missed it.

I was walking off a midday meal at the Rote Bar, the crimson-satinand- velvet candy-box of a dining room at the Hotel Sacher (sacher. com), where I’d eaten the very same meal I’ve had there on every visit to Vienna since my first one some 25 years ago. Kräftige tafelspitzsuppe mit frittaten (deeply reduced beef bouillon garnished with thinly sliced crepes) was followed by tafelspitz (beef topside poached in the same bouillon) and then, inevitably, a slice of Sacher-Torte, the chocolate-glazed, apricot jam-filled chocolate cake created by chef Franz Sacher in 1832, with a good lashing of schlagobers (‘whipped cream’ just sounds so dull in comparison).

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About delicious. Magazine

Stay cosy this winter with the January issue of delicious. magazine. Gill Meller brings seasonal comfort, Thane Prince transforms leftovers and José Pizarro cooks a warming menu from Catalonia. Thomasina Miers, Bill Granger and Matt Tebbutt share their favourite family recipes and Phil Vickery shows that healthy food can be tasty too. Plus we have the best Cornish pasty, our guide to the perfect cooked breakfast and this month's must-cook pudding – sticky, caramel chocolate sponge. And don't miss our brilliant pull-out Winter Vegetarian collection.