January means conflicting emotions. Week one: most of us want an antidote to the rich eating of Christmas. Week two: after seven days of abstemious behaviour, it’s cold, it’s wet, work is hectic and I want comfort food (I’ve a feeling I’m not alone here). Yet almost everything you read reminds you a new year should mean a ‘new you’, and there’s an underlying theme to all things food-related: guilt – or, rather, how to avoid feeling guilty about what you eat.