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Digital Subscriptions > delicious. Magazine > June 2019 > PLEASE LEAVE OUR FOOD ALONE!

PLEASE LEAVE OUR FOOD ALONE!

Has the food world’s obsession with novelty gone too far? Is ‘re-invention’ just another word for ‘needless crimes against foodstuffs’? Debora Robertson reckons there is such a thing as an innovation too far – and it leaves a nasty taste in the mouth
ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

I don’t have much time for purity for purity’s sake. It feels overwhelmingly bleak. It’s to food what “Well, actually…” is to conversation. It sucks out all the joy. And often it’s a slick form of snobbery too. The person sneering up their sleeve at you for using pancetta instead of guanciale in your carbonara doesn’t care what it tastes like. They’re very excited though that they’ve caught you out in your (to them) lamentable act of ignorance. My advice to you is to move along quickly before they start droning on about their gap year assisting an artisan salumiere in Umbria. Save yourself.

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About delicious. Magazine

June brings warm sun and a new issue of delicious. packed with even sunnier food. Enjoy fabulous recipes that add a new dimension to barbecue fare, the 5 best Italian sauces for summer, Georgina Hayden’s pack-and-go feast, Jason Atherton’s brilliant pizza recipe and three colourful, fruit-filled pavlovas. Something summery to drink? How about some wonderful homemade elderflower fizz. Plus, don’t miss our easy 5-ingredient midweek recipes that will give you more time to enjoy the light evenings and our special 16-page Collector’s Edition, a guide to eating outside. Hooray for a delicious. summer!