A SLICE OF MY LIFE
The celebrated Chinese cookery writer talks growing up in the kitchen and eating his way across the globe
KEN HOM
WHERE IT ALL BEGAN
I went to work at my uncle’s restaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown when I was 11, and that’s where I really learned about food. I was given the worst jobs because I was the youngest. Every other Thursday I’d have to break open 80lb of sea conch and pull out all the innards, which would smell to high heaven. It wasn’t glamorous.