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Digital Subscriptions > Delicious Magazine > November 2018 > DUCK: star of the bill

DUCK: star of the bill

For chef Henry Harris, duck is the king of birds for its flavour and its sheer versatility. Taking his cue from the traditions of southwest France, he puts on a variety show with duck starring in a number of roles: as tender confit legs, in a rich terrine, as marinated crispyskinned roast breasts, and smoked for a glorious Sunday evening treat

the residency.

Confit duck with lentils,
PHOTOGRAPHS TARA FISHER FOOD STYLING JEN BEDLOE STYLING WEI TANG

HENRY HARRIS Food writer in residence No 9

A simple fact: I love duck. When I see it on a menu I can’t resist it. Roast, braised, casseroled, poached, minced… Farmed or wild, it’s the feathered equivalent of the pig as it fulfils so many roles. I’m happiest when I restrict myself to one style of duck cookery – and it has to be that from the southwest of France, from Cognac to the Pyrenées. There, duck is served in unchanging ways: in slow-cook casseroles with beans or lentils, as large rare breasts grilled with herbs and garlic, in pâtés and terrines… Duck livers appear in salads, while the meat is shredded as rillettes and its copious fat rendered to use for roasting potatoes or for a gratin. I’ve adapted some classics for the menus in my pub dining rooms, where duck is a key theme – and it flies out!

Henry Harris is chef director of Harcourt Inns, which includes The Hero of Maida, The Coach and Three Cranes (theheromaidavale.co.uk)

Duck, pork belly and green olive terrine

MAKES 1 TERRINE (SERVES 10). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15-45 MIN, PLUS 48 HOURS MARINATING AND PRESSING

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About Delicious Magazine

Buy the November issue of delicious. magazine and celebrate our 15th birthday along with Michel Roux Jr, Henry Harris, Gill Meller, Tom Aiken, Mary Berry, Anna Del Conte and Annie Rigg. Eric Lanlard cooks a birthday cake, of course and everyone’s in the party mood with our simple cocktails and top wine recommendations. Find out which cookbook most inspired Nigella, Rick, Yotam, Prue and more. Plus, it’s not too early to start thinking about Christmas – see our gift guide for brilliant gift ideas and pick your favourite get-ahead Christmas bakes.